At first, I did not like N-type plugs. As someone whose first transmitter featured a "Belling-Lee" socket I even found PL-259 plugs a bit technical. The main benefit of the PL-259 seemed to be that unlike the Belling-Lee it did not pull out of the back of the rig by itself and it tended not to melt so quickly if you transmitted for too long. In fact when my earliest the second-hand Amphenol 259s ran out, the cheap new replacements could melt just like a Belling-Lee as the central bush was often not well made.
As time went on my preferred frequencies went up and even the trusted PL-259 fell out of favour. After all, it was just a shielded banana plug. The fundamental problem was that it failed to maintain a constant impedance whilst if I used a 50 Ohm N-type that could be ensured (if I assembled it correctly). After a famous incident where a vertical antenna sprang an internal leak and rain water passed through the SO239/PL259 combination and down the coax, rotting the expensive cable as it went, I had had enough of PL-259s. Even though I had encased the connection in self-amalgamating tape to stop any water getting in from the outside, there was nothing to stop it passing right through the inside of the plug.
That joy of N-type includes some confidence in the impedance, lower loss, some degree of water protection and generally less loss. Then they can handle much more power. Even though the cheap inners of melting 259s have gone, even full-spec 259s have lower power handling, especially at higher frequencies.
If you want to test the frailties of PL-259s at higher frequencies, try stringing a few back to back in a single run of coax and watch the SWR go up and up.
Anyway, VHF and higher frequency equipment started appearing with N-types as standard. There was always the option of using converters. These will allow you to connect a PL-259 plug to an N-type socket, and even vice-versa. Not a good plan, apart from lashing things up occasionally to test them. It is a simple issue: by effectively converting an N-type which the manufacturer has carefully specified to get maximum performance you are reducing the specification to a PL-259 level which they had deliberately not used to start with. If your linears etc, further towards the antenna, also used 259s you were heading for even more trouble.
So at some stage I decided to ditch all the comfortable old ideas and, as far as possible, out went the converters, RG-213 coax, PL-259s and so forth to be replaced with Hyperflex or Ultraflex 10 (U10) for main antenna runs, Ultraflex 7 (U7) for ancillary stuff, and N-types wherever I could.
It quickly became clear that compression type plugs were the best. Expensive Messi and Paoloni (M&P) in exposed places, but often other makes for inside or low power use. And at first I did not like compression plugs.
![]() |
| Parts of an N-type compression plug |
On the left is the blue stopper to prevent the pin falling out in transit - you can keep it as a dust cap. Next is the barrel, followed by the centre pin and the insulating bush. Then you have the collar which pushes under the coax outer sheath to make contact with the braid (it fits the opposite way round but it kept rolling away so it is shown facing the wrong way in the photograph). Then you have the brown compression ring with a washer on either side. The left hand washer is smaller and butts up against the cut end of the sheath (the braid it trapped between it and collar then trimmed). On the right of the compression ring is the most crucial washer in that the plug will not go together properly if it is not in place to allow the compression ring to be compressed by the sealing nut on the right. The barrel has a flat on it and the sealing nut has a nut end so that you can put on two (usually 18 or 19mm) spanners and tighten the whole thing up very tightly thereby sealing it rather well while at the same time compressing the ring tightly, producing a reproduceable low loss fairly watertight plug.
This all looks simple so what was the problem? I mean, unlike 259s of an earlier era, there was no need to solder the braid to the barrel of the plug (though 259 compression types are now more like this). The thing was, I did not know what I was doing. It was not until a retailer put a video explanation on their website that the penny started to drop. Then eventually M&P began to put an explanatory card (with 13 steps!) which showed you exactly what to do.
I had to learn the hard way. The plug is carefully machined and all the bits need to be perfectly assembled. Without the (otherwise apparently pointless) washer between the compression ring and the sealing nut it is very difficult to screw the thing together, and it will not be watertight. And then we come to soldering the centre pin to the centre conductor of the coax - never an easy task for me. In that first video I watched it gaily stated that if you place the hole in the pin vertical and place the soldering iron on top then the solder will happily sink into the hole as if by magic. Not in my world it doesn't. And M&P suggest only having the soldering iron to the pin for two to three seconds. However, over time I have got better at this and by now I must have made up several dozen N-type plugs. They are not cheap, but they are very good.
So what brought this back to my attention recently was when making up the coax connection to an antenna which must be 50 years old but which has been in the FVM Garage Dead Antenna Storage Facility here for 10 years or more. More on that antenna, if it works, later, but for now you can take it that the main specification for putting this antenna back up was that the whole project had to be done at no cost. Thus, not only was the antenna old, but the coax was U7 recovered from an earlier project which was to be connected to some existing U10 which runs into the shack. And as the U10 had an existing N-type plug on it then the recovered U7 had to have an N-type too. The project is low frequency and low power so there was no real need for N-types but I was not going to change the N-type on the existing coax for no good reason either.
For this purpose I selected one of M0MAT's plugs which work for the H7 coax I was using. That is the plug in the photo. To start with I did all the right things. I pushed the sealing nut up the coax, followed by the wider washer and the compression ring. I even wrapped some insulating tape round the coax to stop them falling back out again as the coax was hanging downwards (these bits can fall off and leave you having to take the whole thing apart again if you are not careful). Then I trimmed back the coax outer sheath 10mm, slid on the narrower of the two washers, peeled back the braid, pushed in the collar under the braid and trimmed back the excess braid. Then I carefully trimmed back the inner of the coax right back to the collar ready to solder on the centre pin. At this stage I could take off the piece of insulating tape which was preventing the other parts from falling off the coax as the collar would now hold everything back up the coax.
Being a Good Citizen I then tidied up and took the cut sheath, used insulating tape, bits of braid and coax inner and threw them in the kitchen bin.
Next task was soldering the centre pin. With 7mm coax like H7 this is tricky because the hole in the pin is narrower (or so it appears to me). Anyway I got it done though I dropped a little ball of solder onto the tip which I carefully filed off. So that is ready. All I need to do is slip on the insulating bush, put the barrel over the whole assemblage and tighten up the entire thing.
But there was no insulating bush.
Arrgghh!
It was here. I remember taking it out of the barrel and pulling the pin out right at the start. Is it on the cupboard I have placed all the bits on? No. Under the baragraph which is also on the cupboard? No. Behind the cupboard having slipped down the wall? Is it on the carpet? Under the radiator? Has it rolled into the shack or the bathroom? Did I take it into the shack? It is at the bottom of the pockets of my overalls? No to all these.
Can I borrow a bush from another identical plug? There are no more identical plugs. There are ones that look the same but turn out to be PL-259s. There are others which look the same but turn out to be for 10mm coax and this is 7mm coax. Would the bush from one of those fit? No, but nice try.
I went through my collection of plugs which I keep in jars in the shack. Ah, I found an M&P one for H7 which I could put on if I take all the parts of the M0MAT one off the coax and start again. But hold on, I would have to undo all my work so far. Anyway, that M&P plug is more expensive and I have been keeping it for outdoors use, and I would have to throw away the M0MAT plug which is ready but for the lost bush.
What a dilemma to have. My low budget project spiralling away because I might have to use a more expensive plug. £6.89 is at stake here. And I would have to throw an almost complete plug away. I refuse to spend more money on this (possibly doomed) project than I need to. In desperation I crawled around on the floor looking for that bush. It was not be found.
OK, I do have an M0MAT right angle plug for 7mm cable. It tried that and it turned out that it had all the same parts already on the coax, such as the washers and collar, fitted that plug. So I could fit that and get going and worry about the bush later (I had already spent a long time looking for it). That right angle plug is different in certain ways of course, as it has a fixed bush and also a fixed centre pin which is soldered to the coax centre conductor through a screwed in blanking cap.
I only had to unsolder the centre pin which I had already soldered to the coax inner as of course the one in the right angle plug is fixed in place. That was the only thing I had to undo. As it happened there was just enough coax inner conductor to reach that fixed inner pin and I soldered it in and screwed up the plug. Perfect. It is indoors and so waterproofing is not important and the job is complete though the right angle plug looks as bit odd in that location attached to existing coax heading towards the shack.
I sat in the shack puzzled. How could I have lost that bush? Did I imagine that I had pulled it off the centre pin? Had someone sneaked in and stolen it?
Probably an hour later it dawned on me. Maybe I had thrown away the bush with the discarded bits of braid etc. I checked the kitchen and I could only see the discarded bits in the bottom of the bin. Then a further check revealed the bush stuck to the bottom of the used insulating tape. Ah ha!
As both the original plug and the right angle one use the same parts (apart from the pin and bush) I was able to take the bits left over and make up an almost unused plug, the only noticeable difference being that the centre pin had been soldered and then desoldered. It lives on for some future use. I did not need to undo all the earlier work nor add £6.89 to the project budget. Hooray!
![]() |
| The recovered bush and a right angle plug similar to the one later used |
The message of all this is...
Never tidy anything up.
73 Jim
GM4FVM
P.S. As a general rule I do not do much tidying up anyway. How did it happen that I let my standards slip and actually tidy up this time?






















